Barb's Travel Journal: Antarctica, Page 2

Deception Island

Deception Island is probably the most diverse and interesting place I visited in Antarctica. The island is actually a volcano. When the volcano erupted long ago it blew out a very small portion of the rim allowing sea water to flood the caldera. The narrow passage that was created is navigatable by small ships. The beaches are covered in volcanic ash (black), hematite (red) and cheptonite (yellow.)

Ash Rock, Hematite, and Cheptonite

Pendulum Cove

Pendulum Cove Beach

Pendulum Cove offers the visitor two distinct opportunities. The first, the remains of a Chilean research station that burned down during the last eruption. Those interested in volcanology have the chance to examine lava rocks, hematite and cheptonite. Second, you can swim at Pendulum Cove! The volcano is still active and several vents allow rising heat to warm the waters near the beach. The "beach" is actually ash. My recommendation is to have some sort of shoe on to protect the soles of your feet. The beach and water are too warm to walk on barefoot. Also, the water near the beach is too warm to sit in. Dig a shallow pool in the surf, this will allow you to regulate the warmth of the water. Cool water from the ocean side, warm water from the beach side.

Whaler's Bay

Old Wooden Shore Boat

The remains of an old whaling station are still visible, including the large oil drums and beached shore boats. At Whaler's Bay you can examine the remains of a British Air Force Station that was in use during World War II. It was a strategic base whose intent was to protect the Drake Passage in case the Axis took the Panama Canal. Also, from Whaler's Bay you can hike to Neptune's Window. The "window" is a crescent shape along the rim of the caldera. The hike up the caldera and across to Neptune's Window is challenging. There are very few penguins on this part of the island, but the many snow melt streams and ponds create a good setting for viewing a variety of petrels.

Bailey Head

Hillside of Nesting Penguins

Wow!, this was the one time I wished I'd had a camcorder. There is no way I can describe the movement of the penguins here. Bailey Head is a challenging zodiac landing due to the tides, surf, rocks and limited landing area. Because of the narrow beach head, the penguins funnel down to the beach. It is an amazing sight that cannot be captured on a still photo. They appear to respect driving convention. Those going to the beach are on the left, those departing the beach are on the right. To move inland we "merged" with the general flow by walking at a penguin pace. It is estimated there are half a million penguins at Bailey Head, mostly chinstrap penguins.

Chinstrap Penguin

This is a wonderful opportunity to observe penguins and their behaviors. I was nearly overwhelmed. Where to look next? and the noise was incredible. Penguins make a honking and a quacking sound. Penguins were nesting, vocalizing, bathing, sunning and feeding. It was fun to sit on the beach and watch them going into the water. They were going to feed on krill, which is their only source of nourishment.

In addition to the chinstrap penguins we observed on Deception Island, we also observed Adelie, gentoo and macaroni penguins during other stops we made at Snow Island, Penguin Island, Paulet Island and Elephant Island.

Reading  -  Birds  -  Provisions  -   Photos